Provex Series 2 Quadrant Shower Enclosure. Notes on assembly instructions. (rev B0)
Sizes Note that the adjustment sizes are 20 mm bigger than those in the catalogue or on the website which are series 1. E.g. the 780 - 800 mm is 800 -820 mm on the instructions (Series differ on the detail of the door foot trim: 2 has concave foot trim)
Tools The drill (supplied) is 2.5mm and is used to drill holes for
the self tappers. The screwdriver required is Phillips not Posidrive.
(has a different blade angle)
The smaller spring loaded wheels go on the bottom of the door. The bottom wheels clip into the rail extrusion. Do not fit the foot trim yet.
Check the shower dimensions. The waterproof backing must extend
beyond the uprights and be sealed to the tray as far as the outside of
the uprights.
The inside of the uprights is ‘wet’ and drains the seepage from around the glass back into the tray. A extra bead of silicon along the inside back of the upright (but not on the inside tray edge) would not go amiss.
The tray edge must be level.
If the tray droops 6 mm at 1, the
upright at 2 will be 13.5 mm out. The other upright is vertical so the
top rail will be distorted as shown in red. This will cause
difficulties as the doors will be twisted as they go round the track
and will tend to jam.
Picture H (below) suggests adjustment of the 1-3 upright out of
vertical if
needed. This is difficult as the screws are hidden by the time you get
to H and probably unsightly as 1-3 will be seen to lean.
A trial assembly without doors and a check that the top rail is
directly above the bottom one would probably be useful. See
troubleshooting. Don't fix the two halves of the enclosure to the
uprights yet.
Feed an end stop with plastic buffer, the door or wheels, another endstop with buffer into each arm. If the doors are at their lowest level the lower spring wheels can be unclipped.
Picture E Put the handles on. Picture F Fit the joining pieces.See G below before you commit yourself.
The clips may need very slight relieving under the outside catch (use a hacksaw blade). Offer them up to the joining pieces before assembly to see where. Fitting the clips may be done later.
Adjust the screws at the top of the door so both lower wheels fit the track without strain on the corner.
The picture above left shows (from a rather strange perspective) the unclipped lower wheels being adjusted. Both should be in contact with the curved part of the track at once. To move the handle side wheel nearer the track lift the handle side up by screwing the handle side adjuster in (clockwise). To move it out go in the reverse direction. You can also use the other adjuster in the reverse direction.
The top of the door may be slightly out of level after this adjustment but this can be accommodated in the seals. The two lower wheels should also both contact the lower rail on the straight section. This cannot be adjusted by tilting the doors. If the wheels fail to line up (allowing for reasonable tolerance on the door curve) the frame may not be square - see troubleshooting.
The wheels are on pivots so that they can swivel from in line on the straight section of track to radial on the curve. The top wheels have the weight of the door on them and follow the track closely. The lower wheels depend on the force from the spring to keep them in contact with the track. If the force is too low or there is distortion in the frame or mountings they can catch the back of the track, swivel and jam.The springs have a 6 mm travel. Put a piece of masking tape on the glass and mark the position of the top of the screw head on the lower wheels when they are out of the track. Check that there never a complete loss of pressure on the wheels when they are engaged over the length of travel.
Adjust the uprights until everything works correctly and looks
right. The arrows along the base presumably refer to positioning on the
tray. If you need to move the uprights on the walls (top left in
picture) you will need to
take it to bits again, back to G. The door edge moldings can be
adjusted with a mallet and wood block to meet even if the tops are not
level.
The plastic extrusions on the edge of the fixed glass are handed: there is a cut out at the bottom. When you finally fit the foot covers check that it misses them.
Picture IWhen it all works fit the screws through the enclosure into the uprights after drilling holes. Silicon seal the outside bottom and two edges. Clear seal is probably more forgiving of error. This also holds the uprights in place. The lower clip needs a bead of silicon over the outer joint in the rails as the inside of the rails is wet. Don’t seal the inside of the joint: this is a drain.
End stops: those at the top do most of the work: fit these so that they contact first. The plastic end pieces on the tops of uprights are optional.
TroubleshootingIf the wheels can’t be aligned in G check the frame alignment.
A Measure the diagonal between inside corners of the glass top and bottom. They should be the same.
B Hang a plumb bob (or thin string with a weight) over the join in the top rail and see where the top rail is relative to the lower rail.
C Check the side extrusions for vertical at right angles to the wall.
If the top measurement in 1 is less than the bottom and or the top rail bulges out in 2, the top of the frame is squashed. 3 will tell you which upright is in error.
Text © 2006 Steve Smith